The Matrix WI4 Hyalite Canyon, Mummy Cooler Area

Location: Mummy Cooler Area, Main Fork, Hyalite Canyon

Route: 45 meters, WI4 sometimes (M5)

The Matrix is found just right and slightly below the Mummy 2 amphitheater and is often climbed when Mummy 2 or Scepter have parties on them. There are a few different routes to get here. Some may climb G1 or Lower Green Sleeves and then head up to G2 or Hangover before traversing up and right to the Mummy 2 Amphitheater - for a long day and a fast team of competent climbers, this will work. We suggest following the Grotto Falls trailhead until reaching the Amphitheater Corner Climbs and then traversing left up the climber trail. Follow the trail up a thin gully until reaching the upper cliff band heading right towards Mummy 2. Rather than following left, head right dropping down 20 meters and around a corner. Here you will spot the Matrix. 

The Matrix in "Fat" conditions.

The Matrix in "Fat" conditions.

The Matrix hangs over a huge cave that keeps you out of the elements and is a great lunch spot with a view of the Fat One across the valley. Begin with a short steep bulge and then an easy ramp up to the crux. The Crux pitch is often thin and sparse - bring stubby screws. Once above the crux there is  mellow snow/ice to a tree anchor. This route has an M5 rating as sometimes the ice doesn't always reach the ground nor fill in all the way. IF this is the case, this climb is a totally different beast.